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I ran out of chemical stabilizer, can I just add dechlorinator to my tank? Also Betta tank questions!!?
I just recently added a Betta to my filter and heated tank. His name is dupersuperfragicalolisticespealodousus:). The lady said my water ph was to high(8.6) and to do a water hangs and then add him(which I did). Because I’ve been having ph swings with that brand stuff Betta water people on yahoo said to do a water change right away with tap water(treated of course). I’m afraid this will stress him, because he is
fairly new to the tank. He is pretty active, just rests alot. (by the way, high ph is common where I live, so will he adapt because I don’t like that ph down stuff). He didn’t want to eat this morning, is that because he’s new and docent know where food comes from? He is pink with blue,red, And clear fins. He also has a lil bit of red near his gills, like a pretty big wound. If I do a water change should I add a lil aquarium salt? If so how much? He is really shy, and dosent flare. Is he just adjusting!? I really want him to live!
-just another concerned pet parent 
Bettas can handle just about any PH, so it isn’t the PH that’s the issue it’s drops and spikes that cause stress & potential illness. Don’t use PH Up, PH Down or anything else-less is often more with fish tanks. If your water’s PH differs drastically from when it comes out of the tap to when you add it to the tank then treat it with water conditioner but then let it sit out until the PH matches. I was a little confused as to what was meant by “ph swings with that brand stuff.”
Don’t add aquarium salt. Though it can have beneficial properties since your betta is a freshwater fish you’d have to add so much salt to see any benefit that you’d end up killing him. Again, “less is more”…
I’m assuming by “lady” you meant “lady @ the pet store?” Please disregard anything pet stores tell you as they are not reliable sources of info., often aren’t trained on pets, especially fish, give out wrong info. & will say anything in order to push product as the goal is to tell things, not to promote good pet care.
Are his gills swollen or just red in color? Red could just be his coloring & if it’s inflammation due to ammonia keeping him in good quality water (i.e. keeping up with his water changes) & providing him with heated, 78 degree water will heal his gills on his own unless he had an injury or birth defect.
Bettas can live up to 21 days without food. He may not be eating yet for a # of reasons: he doesn’t like the food, he doesn’t know that it’s food cuz it’s different than what he’s had before, he’s still getting used to his surroundings. Flakes, pellets, and freeze dried food are supposedly less tasty to bettas than other foods & also have lots of filler that bettas can’t digest, can cause bloating problem in sensitive and old bettas & is the least nutritious. If you can get it live food is best, as it’s similar to what he’d eat in the wild and they often like to “hunt” it. Frozen food is 2nd best. PetSmart/Petco sell frozen foods: brine shrimp, bloodworms, glassworms, etc. for $4-5/bubble pack of food. In order of best-to-worst for digestion/nutrition it’s live, frozen, freeze-dried, flakes, then pellets. If you do feed pellets soak them in water first, otherwise they’ll expand in his stomach when they come into contact with his digestive juices & that can cause bloating issues.
If he doesn’t realize that what you’re feeding him is food, it helps to play with his food. Take a toothpick & drag his food along the surface, waterlog it so it sinks, etc. Often this is enough to pique their attention and they’ll try a bite, though even this sometimes takes at least a few days.
Also, make sure he has these items as they affect his appetite:
1) As a tropical fish, he needs a heater & a water temp. of 78 degrees 24/7. Cooler leads to stress, poor digestion, color loss, clamped fins, illness, lethargy, loss of appetite and/or death. Depending on the tank size he needs: 1-gallon (7.5 or 10 watt heater @ PetSmart and PetCo), 2.5-3 gallons: 25 watt heater (@ most pet stores), 5 gallons: 50 watt heater (@ most pet stores).
2) Water changes remove ammonia, which is toxic and forms in the water from uneaten food, waste, even breathing. It’s colorless and odorless so you can’t tell if the water’s okay by just checking to see if it looks clean. If it’s an uncycled tank: 1 gallon: change 100% of the water (and rinse off plants, gravel, etc.) every 1-3 days; 2.5-3 gallons 2-3 times/week; 5 gallons 1-2 x’s/week. If it’s a cycled tank, change out 10-25% of the water (exact amount is based on your water test kit results) & vacuum 1/3 of the gravel 1x/week.
Not flaring doesn’t mean he’s unhappy or sick. Just like people, all bettas are different; some are passive, some aggresive, others are shy & some are very territorial. If yours doesn’t flare & is showing no other symptoms of illness then I wouldn’t worry.
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